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Posted (edited)

Its Kind of essentiel not to have windows bloated with processes in the background when gaming.

Only have running what is nesseary. ( look in task manager) Removee or disable ALL updaters, bloat ware crap  etc.....

Disable devices that are not needed (by script or device manager or bios)  wifi, bluetooth, webcam, cd rom drive :-) .....

Un-plug usb devices not needed when gaming

If you have both usb2 and usb3 portts : Use USB 2 ports for mouse & keyboard. Some pcs gaming experience can be better if they not share same usb bus.

 

Yes it was nice back in the days and became crap when Razer had it. But now Im using it again on both my win 7 and 10

Smart Game Booster 4

http://www.pcgameboost.com/

 

In win 10 I have around 50 or less processes running when gaming. In windows 7 its ariund 45 or less

 

gamebooster.jpg

Edited by Spieler4
Posted
13 hours ago, Druidix said:

No there is no other slots, but don't worrie my temp are ok and all is clean :P 
I've up the gpu fan speed (cause there is only one working ^^), now it stays around 62-63(72 before, seems it causes some problems on kepler) and my processor is at 50 max

Sounds quite bad, no wonder you've had throttling issues

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Run MSI Afterburner and leave that running in the background. It's pretty good for handling your fans without messing around too much and means they're quiet when you're idling.

Never defrag an SSD by the way unless you want to wreck it, only do that with your mechanical drives.

You could try Windows 10 Creators update and see how you get on with Game Mode switched on. It's meant to help with the stuttering by giving less resources to background services while you're gaming. Haven't had time to test it out yet though.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

hi
I've seen polaris can be undervolted easyli, so I would like to do it. The xfx is a little bit noisy ^^ 
Here are the values for the moment: http://www.noelshack.com/2017-23-6-1497116402-wattman.png 
first, which states should I touch? Only the last or 5-6-7? 
and how much should I undervolt each time (-10 then test or -20 then test...)? 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Finally i will probably change my psu, cause it's noisy (i think tthe noise come from psu). But the problem is that new psu fan is on the top of the psu, whereas on mine it was on the rear. And as i have an old case, i have to put the psu on the top of the case. 
That mean that the fan will catch hot air from cpu/gpu, or i will have to drill  an aeration grid on the top of the case like this for exemple

 IMG_5619.png)
What is the best solution? 

Here a picture of the monster (don't blame me about câble management :|). Just read that the front fan is useless, except if it run very low. Do you think i should remove it ?

https://www.noelshack.com/2017-33-4-1502989452-20170817-161421.jpg

Edited by Druidix
Posted

Re pic. Move pc out of that wood speaker box -> more silent & cold pc -> less fan speed Or glue carpet around in that wood hole

Maybe its enough just turning the rear chassis fan around and make it blow air into pc or move rear fan on to power supply inside pc to help airflow out of pc via psu.

Should be easy to try out before drilling holes in top Chassis

Make sure cables on new power supply supports your hardware

 

 

Posted

You think I should put the case on another place, right? 
I've removed the front fan, without i get the same temperatures. It's a artic F12, and the rear one a antec tricool. Was thinking that it could be better, maybe, to remplace the tricool with the f12. Cause tricool has only 3 position: low medium and high, whereas i can change the f12 speed with command center. 
And i was thinking to drill the top (but not like on picture, not just over the psu) and put the tricool here. But maybe 2 fans in extractions and 0 in aspiration will be bad. 

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